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It was a smile I would grow all too accustomed to from Saudi men in the coming days.
It translated into “No f---ing way, lady.”“Women are not allowed to go into cemeteries,” he told me.
Millions of Muslims flock to Mecca and Medina annually. Saudi Arabia has long kept not just its women but its very self behind a veil.
Robert Lacey, the Jidda-based author of explains that only when revenues from the hajj pilgrims fell drastically, during the Depression, did the Saudis allow infidel American engineers to enter the country and start exploring for oil.
Women traveling on their own have generally needed government minders or permission slips.
A Saudi woman can’t even report harassment by a man without having a or male guardian, by her side.
A group of traditional Saudi women, skeptical of any sort of liberalization, recently started an organization called My Guardian Knows What’s Best for Me.
Leslie Mc Loughlin, a fellow at the University of Exeter’s Institute of Arab and Islamic Studies, led tours to the Kingdom in 20, and both groups included affluent and curious Jewish men and women from New York.
But on 9/11 the passageway narrowed again as Saudi Arabia and the United States confronted the reality that Osama bin Laden and 15 of the 19 terrorist hijackers were Saudi nationals.